The wave forecast we check on the web nowadays rely on the description of wave processes thorugh a software called spectral wave model. Being able to represent a wide range of physical process, spectral wave models are particularly suited for wave forecasting. Moreover they run with a reasonable computational cost. Nevertheless, we know or at […]
What is a wave spectrum?
As marine sports-people, we regularly check specialized websites to have a clue about the evolution of sea conditions in the next days. Nowadays, almost all the wave forecasts available are based on spectral wave models (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wind_wave_model). The final product provided by websites is made up of relevant parameters: for instance wave height, period and direction. […]
Why do waves slow down in shallow water?
Many surfers, and watermen in general, have the notion that waves slow down as they approach coastal water. This process is crucial in wave dynamics especially because it plays a big role in wave breaking. Remember that the wave period remains constant along wave propagation in coastal water. Being the wave celerity simply the ratio […]
Can you spot a rip current?
Rip currents are worldwide recognized as a major hazard on beaches exposed to energetic waves. The American Life Saving Association and the Royal National Lifeboat Institution reported that between 70% and 80% of all rescues in US and England are due to rip currents. The victims are not only children or people with low aquatic […]
Why do waves break?
The nearshore is defined as that part of the ocean where the depth is so small that wind-generated waves are influenced by the bottom. It is usual to identify the depth where the waves start to “feel” the presence of the bottom as the depth of approximately half the wave length. In deep waters the […]
Autumn 2016 Model Validation
Can I trust wave forecast made by means of numerical models? Wave forecast, that is the prediction of the evolution of a sea state under the forcing of the atmospheric agents, is just an application of the most sophisticated wave models available nowadays. The main and ultimate goal of this kind of models is to […]
Monthly Report SurfSpots November 2016
November surfspots report. Wave hindcast from the month of November 2016 are plotted in form of wave roses. Main wave statistics are shown as well.
Monthly Report – November 2016
Wave forecast relies on numerical simulations to predict wave conditions in the near future. However, wave data proceeding from wave simulations can also be used to reconstruct the wave climate in a determined period in the past. This is called wave hindcast. Wave hindcast provides crucial information needed to assess wave climate and thus identify […]
Mean and peak wave periods
Sea waves are a periodic phenomenon in which wave phases such as crests and troughs relentlessly alternate and repeat during the propagation towards a shore. The wave period can be defined as the time it takes for two consecutive crests to pass through a fixed point. Depending on the wave conditions, this apparently straightforward definition […]
Even though wave models have become more and more robust and reliable, comparison between model results and data measurements is still a crucial task that no wave modeller can overlook. Here, the SWELLBEAT model data proceeding from the WW3 simulation started on the 13/06/2016 are compared with the wind and wave data measured by the […]