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Wave Breaking

Wave Calculator reprise- Hollow vs Mellow

September 18, 2019October 12, 2019 Michele Leave a comment Wave Breaking, Wave Dynamics, wave physics
Hollow and mellow wave

Calculation is Fun! Last week I showed how to use the Wave Calculator to calculate the volume of water that moves between the wave trough and the crest. Actually it can do a bit more: the Surf Wave Calculator, can help for understanding breaking wave dynamics. I want to make an estimation of the wave breaking at […]

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Why do waves break?

May 16, 2017May 22, 2017 Andrea 2 Comments Wave Breaking

The nearshore is defined as that part of the ocean where the depth is so small that wind-generated waves are influenced by the bottom. It is usual to identify the depth where the waves start to “feel” the presence of the bottom as the depth of approximately half the wave length. In deep waters the […]

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  • Emir Şahin Dilli on Why do waves slow down in shallow water?

    its a nice explanation for people who dont know water wave (...)

  • Andrea on Why do waves break?

    Hi Joe, thank you for your comment. This is not an easy (...)

  • Joe Buchanan on Why do waves break?

    This is good, but I do not understand why the bottom of the (...)

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