# Wave Calculator

Numerical wave models, like WW3, are able to simulate the time evolution of hydrodynamic processes over complex geometries. This means that wave model results are accurate and general but also expensive in terms of time and computational power. However, there are situations in which one needs a reasonably good estimation of a wave parameter and he/she does not have neither the time nor an adequate computer to run simulations. In these cases, the Wave Calculator comes in handy. The Wave Calculator incorporates well known wave theories and formulations to give fast solutions to simple wave problems. Read the about page to know the working principles.

### Linear Wave Calculator

The Linear Wave Calculator computes the mean wave parameters of a sea state at a reference point offshore of the surf zone. It takes the Significant Wave Height, the Peak Period and the Water Depth as inputs. Finally it determines the Mean Wave Length, Wave Celerity, Group Celerity, Relative Depth, Maximum Horizontal Velocity, Maximum Vertical Velocity, Mass Flux, Momentum flux and Energy flux. The input parameters can proceed from measurements, model simulations, empirical estimations, etc…
Introduce the required input parameters (on the left) and push the “Calculate!” button. The Linear Wave Calculator will compute the output parameters (on the right).

INPUTS OUTPUTS
Significant Wave Height (m):

Peak Wave Period (s):

Water Depth (m):
Mean Wave Length = …
Wave Celerity = …
Group Celerity = …
Relative Water Depth = …
Regime = …
Max. Horizontal Velocity = …
Max. Vertical Velocity = …
Mass Flux = …
Energy Flux = …

Example: During an energetic swell, a wave buoy records a Significant Wave Height of 2.1 m and a Peak Period of 9.3 s. The mooring depth is 32 m. Use the Linear Wave Calculator to know the output sea state parameters.
Note: Go to List of variables to see a description of the input variables.

### Surf Wave Calculator

The Surf Wave Calculator propagates the sea state from a reference point offshore of the surf zone up to the breaking point. It takes the following wave parameters at the reference point: Significant Wave Height, Peak Period, Water Depth and Angle of Incidence. In addition, it needs the Sediment Type to deduce the beach profile. Finally it determines the following parameters at the breaking point: Breaking Wave Height, Breaking Water Depth, Breaking Wave Angle of Incidence, Iribarren number and Breaking Type. The input parameters can proceed from measurements, model simulations, empirical estimations, etc…
Introduce the required input parameters (on the left) and push the “Calculate!” button. The Surf Wave Calculator will compute the output parameters (on the right).

INPUTS OUTPUTS
Significant Wave Height (m):

Peak Wave Period (s):

Water Depth (m):

Angle of Incidence (degrees):

Sediment type:
Breaking Wave Height = …
Breaking Wave Angle of Incidence = …
Water Depth at Breaking= …
Iribarren Number = …
Breaking Type = …

Example: A directional wave buoy is moored in front of a coarse-sand beach that has a West orientation (270 degrees) and, due to its morphology, can be considered longshore uniform. During a north-west swell (315 degrees), the buoy records a Significant Wave Height of 2.5 m and a Peak Period of 9.5 s. The mooring depth is 40 m. Use the Surf Wave Calculator to know the breaking water depth and the other breaking wave parameters.
Note: The angle of incidence (in degrees) is the angle between the wave propagation direction and the perpendicular to the shoreline (in the example above the angle of incidence is: 315-270=45 degrees). Accepted angle of incidence values are between 0 and 90 degrees. The larger the angle of incidence, the larger the longshore component of the wave propagation direction. The sediment type has no direct effect on wave breaking but it determines the beach slope that ultimately controls the wave breaking. Go to List of variables to see a description of the input variables.

### Wave Generation Calculator

The Wave Generation Calculator computes the mean wave parameters defining a sea state generated by a wind blowing with a specified strength and duration over a sea area. It takes the Wind Speed, Duration and Fetch as inputs. It determines the Significant Wave Height, Peak Wave Period and the Limiting Factor for Wave Growth. The input parameters can proceed from measurements, model simulations, empirical estimations, etc…
Introduce the required input parameters (on the left) and push the “Calculate!” button. The Wave Generation Calculator will compute the output parameters (on the right).

INPUTS OUTPUTS
Wind Speed (kt):

Duration (h):

Fetch (km):
Significant Wave Height = …
Peak Wave Period = …
Wave growth limited by: …

Example: After a period of dead calm, a 22 knot wind suddenly picks up blowing over a 80 km long fetch. Assuming that both the wind strength and direction experience little variability during 6.5 hours, use the Wave Generation Calculator to know the Significant Wave Height and Peak Period.
Note: Go to List of variables to see a description of the input variables.