## Wave forecast: the last mile

The wave forecast we check on the web nowadays rely on the description of wave processes thorugh a software called spectral wave model. Being able to represent a wide range of physical process, spectral wave models are particularly suited for wave forecasting. Moreover they run with a reasonable computational cost. Nevertheless, we know or at […]

## What is a wave spectrum?

As marine sports-people, we regularly check specialized websites to have a clue about the evolution of sea conditions in the next days. Nowadays, almost all the wave forecasts available are based on spectral wave models (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wind_wave_model). The final product provided by websites is made up of relevant parameters: for instance wave height, period and direction. […]

## Why do waves slow down in shallow water?

Many surfers, and watermen in general, have the notion that waves slow down as they approach coastal water. This process is crucial in wave dynamics especially because it plays a big role in wave breaking. Remember that the wave period remains constant along wave propagation in coastal water. Being the wave celerity simply the ratio […]

## Wave Calculator reprise- Hollow vs Mellow

Calculation is Fun! Last week I showed how to use the Wave Calculator to calculate the volume of water that moves between the wave trough and the crest. Actually it can do a bit more: the Surf Wave Calculator, can help for understanding breaking wave dynamics. I want to make an estimation of the wave breaking at […]

## 6 ft @ 18 sec _ Memories of a Pacific swell

photo credits: Club del Surf Popoyo The Tale In July 2011 I decided to visit a friend from college, FIlippo Biancu, who had established himself in Rivas Province, Nicaragua. He has owned a surf guesthouse called Club del Surf for over 10 years. It sits directly in front of the surf break of Popoyo. Popoyo […]

## Can you spot a rip current?

Rip currents are worldwide recognized as a major hazard on beaches exposed to energetic waves. The American Life Saving Association and the Royal National Lifeboat Institution reported that between 70% and 80% of all rescues in US and England are due to rip currents. The victims are not only children or people with low aquatic […]

## Mean and peak wave periods

Sea waves are a periodic phenomenon in which wave phases such as crests and troughs relentlessly alternate and repeat during the propagation towards a shore. The wave period can be defined as the time it takes for two consecutive crests to pass through a fixed point. Depending on the wave conditions, this apparently straightforward definition […]