Why do waves slow down in shallow water?

Many surfers, and watermen in general, have the notion that waves slow down as they approach coastal water. This process is crucial in wave dynamics especially because it plays a big role in wave breaking. Remember that the wave period remains constant along wave propagation in coastal water. Being the wave celerity simply the ratio […]

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SARDINIA	ITALY MAINLAND

Wave Forecast Overview

Mediterranean and Sardinia wave height

WAVE CHARTS

The Chart section provides 5 days Mediterranean wave forecast with a time step of 3 hours. The charts plot sea and atmospheric parameters. The WW3 wave model is applied over the whole Mediterranean basin with a 18 km grid resolution. The resolution is increased to 1.8 km over the seas surrounding Sardinia and Corsica.

SURF SPOTS

The Surf Spots section shows wave forecast and atmospheric conditions directly at the best known surf spots. The significant wave height and the peak period are extracted from the WW3 model simulation in the nearshore in front of the spot. An external routine estimates the wave height at the breakpoint.

WAVE CALCULATOR

The Wave Calculator incorporates well known wave theories and formulations to give fast solutions to a wide range of wave problems. Different scenarios are available including linear waves, estimation of wave lenght, energy carried by swells, wave propagation and breaking, swell generation by winds.