Calculation is Fun! Last week I showed how to use the Wave Calculator to calculate the volume of water that moves between the wave trough and the crest. Actually it can do a bit more: the Surf Wave Calculator, can help for understanding breaking wave dynamics. I want to make an estimation of the wave breaking at […]
Sea waves are a periodic phenomenon in which wave phases such as crests and troughs relentlessly alternate and repeat during the propagation towards a shore. The wave period can be defined as the time it takes for two consecutive crests to pass through a fixed point. Depending on the wave conditions, this apparently straightforward definition […]
Hi Joe, thank you for your comment. This is not an easy (...)
This is good, but I do not understand why the bottom of the (...)
You actually make it appear so easy with your presentation (...)