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wave breaking

Wave Calculator reprise- Hollow vs Mellow

September 18, 2019October 12, 2019 Michele Leave a comment Wave Breaking, Wave Dynamics, wave physics
Hollow and mellow wave

Calculation is Fun! Last week I showed how to use the Wave Calculator to calculate the volume of water that moves between the wave trough and the crest. Actually it can do a bit more: the Surf Wave Calculator, can help for understanding breaking wave dynamics. I want to make an estimation of the wave breaking at […]

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Mean and peak wave periods

July 27, 2016February 27, 2017 Andrea 1 Comment Wave Dynamics

Sea waves are a periodic phenomenon in which wave phases such as crests and troughs relentlessly alternate and repeat during the propagation towards a shore. The wave period can be defined as the time it takes for two consecutive crests to pass through a fixed point. Depending on the wave conditions, this apparently straightforward definition […]

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