The wave forecast we check on the web nowadays rely on the description of wave processes thorugh a software called spectral wave model. Being able to represent a wide range of physical process, spectral wave models are particularly suited for wave forecasting. Moreover they run with a reasonable computational cost. Nevertheless, we know or at […]
Why do waves break?
The nearshore is defined as that part of the ocean where the depth is so small that wind-generated waves are influenced by the bottom. It is usual to identify the depth where the waves start to “feel” the presence of the bottom as the depth of approximately half the wave length. In deep waters the […]