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pressure forces

Why do waves slow down in shallow water?

September 25, 2019October 24, 2019 Andrea 1 Comment Wave Dynamics
La Speranza

Many surfers, and watermen in general, have the notion that waves slow down as they approach coastal water. This process is crucial in wave dynamics especially because it plays a big role in wave breaking. Remember that the wave period remains constant along wave propagation in coastal water. Being the wave celerity simply the ratio […]

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  • Emir Şahin Dilli on Why do waves slow down in shallow water?

    its a nice explanation for people who dont know water wave (...)

  • Andrea on Why do waves break?

    Hi Joe, thank you for your comment. This is not an easy (...)

  • Joe Buchanan on Why do waves break?

    This is good, but I do not understand why the bottom of the (...)

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