Many surfers, and watermen in general, have the notion that waves slow down as they approach coastal water. This process is crucial in wave dynamics especially because it plays a big role in wave breaking. Remember that the wave period remains constant along wave propagation in coastal water. Being the wave celerity simply the ratio […]
its a nice explanation for people who dont know water wave (...)
Hi Joe, thank you for your comment. This is not an easy (...)
This is good, but I do not understand why the bottom of the (...)