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breaking

Why do waves break?

May 16, 2017May 22, 2017 Andrea 2 Comments Wave Breaking

The nearshore is defined as that part of the ocean where the depth is so small that wind-generated waves are influenced by the bottom. It is usual to identify the depth where the waves start to “feel” the presence of the bottom as the depth of approximately half the wave length. In deep waters the […]

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  • Emir Şahin Dilli on Why do waves slow down in shallow water?

    its a nice explanation for people who dont know water wave (...)

  • Andrea on Why do waves break?

    Hi Joe, thank you for your comment. This is not an easy (...)

  • Joe Buchanan on Why do waves break?

    This is good, but I do not understand why the bottom of the (...)

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