Photo credits: Antonio Muglia Intro Being a surf pioneer nowadays ain’t easy. Imagine: you are an experienced surfer with 30 years surfing experience all around the globe. Not a pro, but can handle heavy conditions having fun at the same time. You come from an island in the middle of Mediterranean Sea where surfing is […]
Rip currents are worldwide recognized as a major hazard on beaches exposed to energetic waves. The American Life Saving Association and the Royal National Lifeboat Institution reported that between 70% and 80% of all rescues in US and England are due to rip currents. The victims are not only children or people with low aquatic […]
The nearshore is defined as that part of the ocean where the depth is so small that wind-generated waves are influenced by the bottom. It is usual to identify the depth where the waves start to “feel” the presence of the bottom as the depth of approximately half the wave length. In deep waters the […]
Can I trust wave forecast made by means of numerical models? Wave forecast, that is the prediction of the evolution of a sea state under the forcing of the atmospheric agents, is just an application of the most sophisticated wave models available nowadays. The main and ultimate goal of this kind of models is to […]
November surfspots report. Wave hindcast from the month of November 2016 are plotted in form of wave roses. Main wave statistics are shown as well.
Wave forecast relies on numerical simulations to predict wave conditions in the near future. However, wave data proceeding from wave simulations can also be used to reconstruct the wave climate in a determined period in the past. This is called wave hindcast. Wave hindcast provides crucial information needed to assess wave climate and thus identify […]
Sea waves are a periodic phenomenon in which wave phases such as crests and troughs relentlessly alternate and repeat during the propagation towards a shore. The wave period can be defined as the time it takes for two consecutive crests to pass through a fixed point. Depending on the wave conditions, this apparently straightforward definition […]
Even though wave models have become more and more robust and reliable, comparison between model results and data measurements is still a crucial task that no wave modeller can overlook. Here, the SWELLBEAT model data proceeding from the WW3 simulation started on the 13/06/2016 are compared with the wind and wave data measured by the […]
People have always been fascinated and scared by the unending motion of the sea. Although the sea motion can be generated by several mechanisms (gravitational forces, seismic activities, meteorological disturbances,…), the wind is the principal source of sea energy. The wind and the related pressure fluctuations represent a disturbance that acts on the sea surface […]
It is a great pleasure to announce that SWELLBEAT is now operational! The website is mainly addressed to marine sports-people, sailors, wave chasers and in general to any person who loves to hang out at coastal environments. Basically, people like us. If you feel an overwhelming desire to escape to the nearest shore as soon as […]
looks like Sardinia is made for you then, just don't expect (...)
Life long surfer william Guevara from north sandiego (...)
its a nice explanation for people who dont know water wave (...)